That's not true. I remember the store. Kokorokoko on Milwaukee. I remember the price. $15. Cash. What I don't remember is trying it on. I think I just grabbed it off the rack, liked the color, and paid.
Red and black plaid. Faded in a few spots. A little thin in the elbows. Tag says "L" but it feels bigger. Men's large. I normally wear a small or medium.
Got home. Tried it on. Looked in the mirror.
Too big in the shoulders. Too long in the arms. The hem hit below my hips. The whole thing was just... loose.
I almost put it in the donate pile. Didn't. Wore it the next day anyway.
That was a year ago. I've worn that shirt maybe forty times since. It's not the best-fitting thing I own. It might be my favorite thing I own.
Here's why.
Why a "Wrong" Fit Works
The shirt is too big. That's the whole point.
A men's flannel that fits properly on me would be a small. Maybe an extra small. The shoulders would hit at the right spot. The sleeves would end at my wrists. The hem would sit at my hips.
That shirt would be fine. Boring. Like every other flannel.
This one is different. The oversized fit makes it work as a light jacket, a mid layer, and a regular shirt. I don't have to choose. It just does all three.
As a light jacket.
Over a white t-shirt. Unbuttoned. Sleeves rolled once. Temperature around 55°F. The loose fit lets air move. I don't overheat. The fabric is thick enough to block a light wind. Not rain. Light wind.
As a mid layer.
Under a Carhartt jacket. Buttoned up. Temperature around 40°F. The extra room means the flannel doesn't get squished. The layers stay loose. Air stays trapped. I stay warm.
As a regular shirt.
Buttoned up. Tucked in loosely. Sleeves down. Temperature around 65°F. The oversized fit actually looks intentional. Like I borrowed it from someone and never gave it back. In a good way.
The Body Type Thing
Here's what I've noticed. Everyone who has tried on this shirt looks good in it.
My girlfriend tried it. She's 5'4". Smaller frame than me. The shirt looked oversized on her too. But in a cozy way. She wore it around the apartment for a week. I had to ask for it back.
My coworker tried it. He's 6'1". Broad shoulders. The shirt fit him like a regular flannel. Not tight. Not loose. Just right. He asked where I got it. I said Kokorokoko. He went the next weekend.
My friend with a larger frame tried it. Size 16. Broad hips. The shirt buttoned fine. The fabric stretched a little. Not uncomfortable. She said it felt "easy."
I don't know why this specific shirt works on everyone. Maybe the cut is boxy. Maybe the fabric has some give. Maybe it's just old enough that someone else already broke it in.
Whatever the reason. A men's large flannel from the 90s seems to fit almost every body type. Not perfectly. Just well enough.
What's Wrong With It
The elbows are thin. Almost see-through. One more winter and there might be holes. I should patch them. I won't.
One button is missing. The third one down. I noticed it the second time I wore it. Didn't notice the first time because I wore it unbuttoned. Now I just leave it unbuttoned. The missing button is hidden under the placket. No one sees it.
The color faded weird. The red is less red now. More pink in some spots. The black is still black. The contrast is lower than when I bought it. I don't mind. Adds character. My girlfriend says it looks "vintage." That's one word for it.
It smells like Kokorokoko. That specific vintage store smell. Old fabric. Old wood. Maybe a little dust. The smell faded after a few washes. But for the first month, I could smell the store every time I put it on. Not bad. Just there.
Where to Find Something Similar
You don't need this exact shirt. You need a men's flannel from the 90s. Faded. Loose. Under $20.
Kokorokoko. On Milwaukee in Wicker Park. Their flannel section is small but good. I've found two more there since this one. Both under $20. Both worked.
Crossroads. On North Avenue. More curated. More expensive. Flannels are usually $15 to $25. The quality is better. Less digging required.
Goodwill. On Cicero. Cheap. Like $6 cheap. But you have to dig. And try everything on. And be okay with leaving with nothing. I've found two good flannels there. I've left empty-handed maybe ten times.
Village Discount. On Milwaukee in Logan Square. Chaotic. But the men's section is huge. Flannels are $5 to $10. The smell is stronger. Wash everything twice.
What to Look For
100 percent cotton.
No polyester. The old ones are always cotton. The fabric breathes better. Feels better. Wears better.
Faded but not destroyed.
A little fading is fine. Holes are not fine unless you want holes. Thin spots are okay. Just don't pay more than $10 for something with thin spots.
Boxy cut.
The shoulders should be wide. The chest should be roomy. The hem should be straight, not curved. That's how they cut them in the 90s. That's what makes it work for different body types.
No stains.
Check the collar. Check the cuffs. Check under the arms. I missed a small stain on the left sleeve of my Carhartt shirt. Saw it when I got home. Still there.
The Real Test
Last month. 52°F. Windy. I wore the flannel over a gray t-shirt. Unbuttoned. Jeans. Boots. Walked to the farmers market in Logan Square. Saw a guy wearing the same shirt.
Same red and black plaid. Same faded look. Same loose fit.
We made eye contact. He nodded. I nodded. No words. Just two people who found the same $15 flannel and never looked back.
I've worn that shirt forty times. Still too big. Still has that missing button. Still my favorite.
Comfort is not a compromise. Neither is a $15 flannel that fits everyone.
